How to Knit a V-Neck

To start the neck, place the center-stitch of the front of the sweater on a holder.

To figure the spacing of the decreases: Take the number of rows in which you need to decrease (gauge × length-of-V) and divide that number by the number of decreases needed to make the number of front shoulder stitches the same as the number of back shoulder stitches. This will determine how many rows you need to work between decreases.

Work the decreases on right side rows only. Work the decrease as evenly as possible in the 2nd or 3rd stitches from the edge, never in the edge stitch.

Example: To work simple V-neck Shaping (decreasing every right side row)

1. Work to the center point and place a marker on the last wrong-side (purl side) row before beginning the neck shaping. Work the rest of the row.

2. (right side, knit side) Work to four stitches before the marker, work two stitches together for a right leaning decrease (k2tog) and then work to the marker. Leave remaining front stitches on a holder (These will be the left front of the V). Turn the work and work to the end of the row (wrong side, purl side). Repeat these two rows until the v-neck is the desired depth and front shoulder stitches the same as the number of back shoulder stitches.

3. Join yarn on the right side at the center front and work the other side of the v-neck (left front) by working two stitches, then work two stitches together for a left leaning decrease (ssk, or sl 1, k1, psso) work to the end of the row and turn the work. Work to the end of the row (wrong side, purl side). Repeat these two rows until the side shaping matches the other side (front right v-neck).

When working neck-band: Using a circular needle, pick up sts evenly around the neck. Work to one stitch before the center-stitch, slip 2 sts together as if to knit, k1, and pass the 2 slipped sts over the knit-stitch (s2kpsso). (This makes the center-stitch lay on top.) Do this every row for 1 or 1-1/2 inches; bind off loosely.

(s2kpsso)

This video shows you how to make this decrease (wait to the end!)

An easy way to increase stitches evenly

One thing that you will find in patterns very often are directions to increase stitches evenly across a row.  The directions might say "inc 21 sts evenly" or "inc evenly to 71 sts".  Doing this requires simple 4th grade math and is a lot easier than it sounds like it should be.

The Not So Common Lace Cast On

This is a very pretty cast on.  It is rather fussy to work, and if you hold the yarn in your left hand, it is rather awkward to work, but nonetheless, it is worth the work.  

                       

shaping a sleeve cap with short rows discussion

 Sometimes it is really challenging to see what is going on with a special technique, like shaping a sleeve cap with short rows, while the knitting is on the needles.  Here I try to describe what is happening when working this technique to shape a sleeve cap and how to keep track of where you are.  Leave me a comment if you have any questions, here, or join me in facebook at www.facebook.com/knittingclasses
    

Color Choices For Hand Knits

There are a of variables that contribute to choosing what colors to knit with.  Your personal preferences, the intended recipients preferences, culture, tradition, what the item you're making will be used for.  So, really, there is no magic formula to the perfect color choice ... you get to make up the rules!  But, if you want a few suggestions as a starting off point.... 

Colors may convey a special meaning.  For those who want to knit an item that expresses solidarity with a specific cause, here are some colors associated with special groups.

Pink - Breast Cancer

Red  - Heart Disease, DUI Awareness (MADD), HIV/AIDS

Grey - Diabetes

Yellow - Testicular Cancer, Deployed Soldiers, Liver Cancer & Liver Disease, Bladder Cancer

Blue - Drunk Driving, Epstein-Barr

Purple - Alzheimer's Disease, Animal Abuse, Cancer Survivor, Children with Disabilities, Crohn's Disease, Cystic Fibrosis

Orange - Hunger Awareness, Leukemia, Lupus

Silver - Abuse of the Elderly

Teal - Ovarian Cancer, Sexual Violence, Spaying & Neutering Pets, Substance Abuse

White - Peace, Bone Disease & Bone Cancer, Multiple Sclerosis

Black - POW-MIA, Anti-Gang

     

Colors are also associated with specific emotions.  

Pink - this color generally represents sweetness and sensitivity, and is seen as indicative of health and vibrancy. It stands for faith and fidelity, and is a good color to demonstrate steadfast friendship.

Red - a passionate and energetic color, this color has long symbolizing energy, power and courage, and can give the wearer strength and fortitude. It also signifies romantic love.

Purple - dignified, mysterious and sophisticated, this color has long been associated with royalty and magic. It inspires awareness and sensitivity, and taps into the unconscious.

Lavender - This refined and delicate shade stands for sensual femininity. It has a genteel presence, and suggests elegance and grace.

Mauve - This noble color projects a high regard for style. Simultaneously subdued and rich, this color projects both a regal and exclusive air.

Blue - this color is associated with stability and steadfastness and often represents tranquility. It is cool and peaceful and can have calming influences.

Green - the universal color of nature, green represents growth, fertility, and health. It is also youthful and fresh, and can symbolize luck.

Yellow - calling to mind sunshine, this color is optimistic, cheerful and full of vitality. It is the most luminous color of the spectrum and is naturally eye-catching.

Orange - this color has psychological connections to excitement, warmth and energy. The color of flames and the sun, orange has inspiring and provocative qualities.

Brown - Earthy, rich and warm, this color represents comfort and durability.

White - clean, crisp and pure, this color symbolizes newness, innocence and purity. It is often used in religious ceremonies.

Grey - this color is cool and balanced, with crisp and sophisticated connotations. While lighter shades are conservative and formal, darker shades convey a sense of depth and mystery.

Six Steps To Designing Your Own Handknits

Just because you're a beginning knitter doesn't mean you can't design your own hand knits.  Here are six steps to help you get started:

1. Make a swatch

The swatch is a sample of the fabric you'll be creating.  Swatching is your friend!  You'll swatch for gauge, of course, but also:

• To test out stitch and color ideas.
• To check how different stitch patterns work together.
• To try out different cast-ons and bind-offs.
• To see how different needles affect the fabric you are knitting.

2. Try out different yarns

You may have some ideas about which yarns will work with the stitch patterns you have in mind, but nothing is more revealing than actually knitting a sample of your stitch patterns with different yarns.  You'll discover that different stitch patterns result in different widths over the same number of stitches and that this will also vary with different fibers - even if the yarns are the same weight category.  Its best to have an idea of what to expect in advance.

3. Measure an existing garment that you really like

Base your dimensions for your design on a similar knitted garment that fits the way you like.  

4. Give in to your knitting preferences

There is no sense in torturing yourself by working with techniques you don't like.  If knitting on size 3 needles and fingering weight yarn makes you cringe, then use bigger needles and thicker yarn!  If you hate seams, knit in the round.  But, if you crave intricate details, love beading, go gaga over cables and really complex lace ... then, knock yourself out, its your knitting after all.

5. Do the math

Ok, so I'm not a fan of math and numbers make my brain feel all melty, but unless you love ripping and re-knitting, you'll want to check your math before you start.  Ideally, you'll want to do the actual knitting as few times as possible, you know, just the one time.

So figure your gauge. Take your measurements. Grab your calculator and do the math. Work out how many stitches to cast-on and where to increase and decrease. Have a bit of faith and start knitting.

6. Write it all down

Even if you're not planning on drafting out a full pattern of your design, give yourself a break and write stuff down!  That way you won't have to agonize over which row you started your shaping or any other tweaks you made as you've been working your design. 

Learn to See Your Stitches, or Read Your Knitting

A couple of weeks ago we considered the difference between a knit and a purl (to read that post, click here)

Learning to see your stitches within the fabric you are knitting is just as important as being able to see them on the needle.  Recognizing the stitches on the needle is like knowing the alphabet, recognizing the stitches in the fabric you're making is like reading ... reading your knitting.  Training your eyes to see, recognize and read your knitting is really important because being able to do this will allow you to see mistakes, see how a pattern should work out while your are knitting it and will enable you to make adjustments and corrections or improvisations as you see fit.  Can you see the stitches in each of the stitch patterns below?

Garter Stitch

Stockinette Stitch

Knit 1, Purl 1 Ribbing

Knit 2, Purl 2 Ribbing

Reverse Stockinette Stitch

The Gauge Swatch

They say its boring, tedious and time consuming.  I say its its a matter of perspective.  Really if you think about it, knitting up a gauge swatch is not an annoying first step that only delays your diving into your next knitting project.  Its an important step that will reveal if that knitting project is really worth your effort!  That little bit of initial knitting is going to give you a whole lot of information.  

1. Your swatch will reveal if you finished project is going to be the right size.
Making a gauge swatch, or a small sample worked in the pattern, is the way to see if your finished work will turn out the same size the pattern specifies. Your swatch will tell you if you are knitting the number of stitches and rows to the inch with the recommended needles called for in the pattern so you can make any necessary adjustments before you begin the actual project.

2. The swatch is a sneak peak of the fabric you will be making
The swatch is a great place to see if the stitch pattern will turn out well and let you know if you even like it!  It's better to find out that you don't like the results of a stitch pattern after making a small sample than after you've spent 5 hours working on it.  

3. You can decide what adjustments, if any are necessary.
Changes in gauge or tools can insure that your project ends up being the correct size, or gives you the look you were expecting.  A swatch will allow you to make changes to asses how you like the drape, texture and suitability of the fabric for your project. Nobody wants a garment that looks "slightly off", even if it was a gift. It's better to find out ahead of time if the fabric will work for your interned project by making a sample swatch.

4. You can determine if the care instructions for your yarn are accurate
There is no disappointment like pulling a shrunken project from the dryer. Before risking the fruits of your labor based on the recommended care instructions, try them out on your swatch.  Better to sacrifice a small sample than the whole thing.

5. The men in your life don't really want pink boxers ... trust me on this one!

A lot of care labels state the item can be washed with like colors. That may, or may not be true.  Here it is prudent not to trust the label without proof to back up its claims.  Soaking your swatch is a good way to see if your garment will be colorfast. Check to see if any dye bleeds into the water. Using your swatch to test how to properly clean and care for the finished object will let you provide the applicable care instructions when giving the item as a gift.

6. Will give you a sneak peak into a new relationship ... with the yarn, that is
Yarns have different characteristics and usually will not reveal how those features will act in an actual project while the yarn is innocently wrapped in its hank, ball or skein. Making a sample will  let you know if your new yarn find is suitable for a given project. 

As you can see, not all of the reasons for making a gauge swatch have to do with number of stitches or rows to the inch.  Although that information is critical, if you want your project to come out the right size, most of the reasons for making a swatch have more to do with evaluating whether or not the yarn and project will satisfy your overall expectations.  

What's all That Knitting Speak Mean?!

When you're just starting out learning to knit some of the language can be confusing!  Here is a list of common terms to help you out:

• Bind Off In Pattern
  Generally this instruction is given when you have been knitting using a stitch pattern. Work the bind off row in the same stitch pattern that you were knitting, binding off the knit stitches knitwise and purl stitches purlwise.  Even if the directions don't specifically tell you to bind off in pattern, you should do so, this is a small detail but adds a professional touch. 

• Decrease Or Increase Evenly
  Sometimes a pattern will tell you where to decrease or increase across a row; other times it will only tell you the number of stitches to decrease or increase and to do so evenly.  This just means to space your increases or decreases across your row instead of placing them close together.  If they're spaced too close together, it can cause your knitting to pucker and flare. 

• Keeping To Pattern (Or Work as Established, Or Maintain Pattern)
  If you knitting a stitch pattern, you'll just follow the instruction for each row as long as you keep working over the same number of stitches. If there is shaping involved, like on a sleeve or neckline, you will need to pay attention to how the increases or decreases affect the stitch pattern.

• Multiple Of Stitches
  A stitch multiple is the number of stitches you need to have for one complete repeat of a stitch pattern. A multiple of 5 stitches means you should cast on any number of stitches that is divisible by 5. A multiple of 6 + 1 means you should cast on any number of stitches that is divisible by 6 plus 1 extra stitch.  The extra stitches are sometimes border stitches, or necessary to balance the stitch pattern within the overall design.  Knowing the multiple of the stitch pattern you are working with is very helpful, especially if you are modifying the size of the project you are working on.

• Reverse Shaping
  Almost all cardigan patterns will give you complete instructions for knitting one front and then tell you to work the other front to correspond reversing all shaping. It's cruel, I know, but we can persevere.  Basically, what you are doing is mirror imaging the shaping instructions.  Graph paper is very helpful when you're working this out. 

• Selvedge
  You will also see this word spelled selvage. All flat knitting has a selvedge on each side. It only means the first and last stitches. If it's something that will be seamed, these are the stitches that will be used to seam the piece together.  Your selvedge stitches can be decorative if they are not going to be incorporated into a seam.  

• With Right Side Facing
  This means to have the outside, or public side of the fabric facing YOU.  Often this direction is given when you are about to pick up stitches along an edge but you may see it at other times too. 

• Work Even
  You'll often see this term following a sequence where you just completed increasing or decreasing.  It just means that you will continue working over the next section without any more increasing or decreasing.  

And we also have these terms that were originally used by knitters on the internet, but now have become common knitting language:

CAL	Crochet-A-Long. See KAL
FO	Finished Object.
Frog, Frogging	To undo knitting to go back to correct a mistake by removing the needles and ripping the stitches out. From the sound a frog makes - ribbit ribbit sounds like rip it, rip it. See tink.
Frog pond	To remove the needles and undo knitting all the way. To recycle the wool from a half knitted project to use in a different project. eg: I've sent the sock that didn't fit to the frog pond and I'm going to make a scarf from the wool.
Halfpint	Have A Lovely Fantasy Project. I've No Time.
KAL	Knit-A-Long. See CAL
LYS	Local Yarn Store.
OTN	On The Needles. A current knitting project.
SSS	Second Sock Syndrome. After having finished one sock it becomes dificult to go on and finish the second one to make a pair.
Tink, Tinking	To undo knitting to go back to correct a mistake stitch by stitch. Tink is knit spelt backwards. See frog.
UFO	UnFinished Object
WIP	Work In Progress

One Stitch - Two Stitch, Or, I can't tell what's what!

After you've learned to knit and purl the next step is to combine these stitches within the same row.  One of the most common stitch patterns combing knit and purl stitches is ribbing.  I my classes, the point of making fabric in a ribbing pattern is to learn to see the stitches.  When you are first starting out, seeing which are the knits and which are the purls can be confusing.  Also, when you are making ribbing, you're often told to knit the knits and purl the purls.  This is so you don't have to think about what comes next in the stitch pattern, just see what is on your needles - if its a knit, knit it, if its a purl, purl it.

This image of knit 1, purl 1 ribbing shows how the knit stitches resemble a letter V and are sitting vertically at the base of the needle, while the purl stitches look like a bar, or dash lying horizontally across the base of  the needle.

Notice the loose stitch at the beginning of the row ... it is a purl stitch.  Watch out for that guy, he often tries to roll over the top of the needle and pretends to be two stitches.  If you don't see the stitches you could easily fall for this and unknowingly add extra stitches you don't want.

Being able to see the stitches is critical when it comes to recognizing when things aren't going right and also to finishing your knits.  Seeing which are the knits and purls is really helpful when you are weaving in your ends and when you are seaming.

Hey, why do the edges of my knitting look all wonky?!

Sometimes you'll notice that the edges of your knitting will look wobbly and wonky.  Not neat and even.  What to do to make sure your edges stay even, well, work a selvedge.

There are several selvedge edges but the most common are the chain selvedges.  These are the four variations:

1.  slip the first stitch of as if to knit on the right side rows, slip the first stitch as if to purl on the wrong side rows.

2.  slip the first stitch and last stitch as if to knit on right side rows, purl the first and last stitch on wrong side rows.

3.  slip the first stitch as if to knit and the last stitch as if to purl on the right side rows, knit the first stitch and purl the last stitch on wrong side rows.

4.  knit the first stitch and slip the last stitch as if to purl on every row.

To slip a stitch as if to knit insert the right needle into the first stitch as if you were going to knit it keeping the working yarn to the back of the work and slide the stitch from the left needle to the right needle without actually knitting it. This is also described as slipping a stitch knitwise. 

To slip a stitch as if to purl insert the right needle into the first stitch as if you were going to purl it keeping the working yarn to the front of the work and slide the stitch from the left needle to the right needle without actually purling it.  This is also described as slipping a stitch purlwise.

My favorite chain selvedge is version 4 because I don't have to remember if I am on a right or wrong side row and it produces a very even chain along both edges of the knitting.  Plus, it looks very pretty on garter stitch fabric.  Try each one for yourself and see which one you like best.

A yarn is a yarn, but which yarn?

Choosing which yarn to use for a knitting project is one of the main concerns I hear in my knitting classes.  Honestly, you can knit with any fiber that is a continuous length and flexible enough to wrap around the needles.  But, of course you're not going to knit a garment with just anything!  In order for your project to be a successful one, you should enjoy the process and like the material you are working with.  

Eventually you will begin to see how the yarn, shape of the garment you're making and stitch pattern you are using will work together to produce a successful project.  At the beginning of your knitting life, though, when you are making basic two dimensional shapes like scarves or blankets, its OK to let the yarn you fall in love with be the primary focus of your project. However, if a sweater is what will be on your needles then there is a bit more you will want to consider when choosing the yarn for it. Much of the time you might be working from a pattern and that will make your yarn selection simpler since you will likely use the yarn called for in the pattern.

If you find a yarn you really love, and want to make it into a sweater, then you will need to depend on the recommended gauge of the yarn to guide you in deciding the type of sweater that yarn will become.  Recommended gauge, also called 'tension', is listed on the yarn label along with recommendations for knitting needle size, and crochet hook size. It's given as a number of stitches and rows over 4 square inches or 10 square centimeters. This is important information to have, particularly when you are deciding if the yarn you are considering will work as a substitute for something else called for in a pattern you like.

However, if the yarn you are considering knits up to a gauge that might work for your intended project that doesn't mean it will be a good choice.  The same goes for two yarns have the same gauge, it doesn't necessarily mean that they can substitute for each other successfully. If they have different characteristics, texture, drape, fiber, and color, the final garment will look and feel different from what you expected, and might not suit the garment, or the intended recipient of your knitting efforts.  Imagine a summer cardigan made out of super bulky yarn.  How about a scarf that is made out of a material not suitable to wear next to your skin.  Or a cashmere sweater for your 8 year old nephew who will likely spill barbecue sauce on it as soon as he puts it on. Not pretty, or practical, is it?

Buyer beware: it isn't easy to predict what yarn in a ball will look like when it's knitted up. This is especially true of novelty yarns. Vibrantly colored hanks may look beautiful when on display, but be just the opposite of what you expected when knitted up. Plain traditional yarns will often surprise you by knitting up into a fabric you love and never expected.

Keep in mind, the drape and feel of your knitted fabric will vary greatly depending on the particulars of the yarn you choose; how tightly spun it is, the fiber its made of, and the dye used to color it.  Ideally you should check to see whether the yarns you're interested in have been knitted into a sample swatch. Most yarn shops knit up sample swatches or entire sweaters in the yarns they carry so that you can see what they look like worked up.  If this isn't the case for the yarn you want, buy one skein and knit it up into one huge swatch, or several smaller ones.  Really play with it, incorporating different stitch patterns and different knitting needles to see what the yarn's potential is.

If you want to work cables and stitch patterns, a smooth plied yarn in a solid color gives your stitches a sharp look, and will show your effort the best.  Novelty yarns will not usually showcase complex stitch patterns, but instead hide them.  In general, smooth plied yarns in a solid color are best for patterns where you want the knitting to stand out. Novelty yarns are best when you want the yarn to stand out, and in this case look best in plain stockinette or garter stitch.  This is true for variegated yarns too, very simple stitch patterns are best, lots of texture with tricky stitch techniques do not show up well, so why put in all the effort if no one is going to see it?

Also, keep in mind, novelty yarns can be tricky to work with.  The wilder the yarn, the more challenging (and depending on the yarn, maybe impossible) it will be to rip out stitches, or fix mistakes.

To sum up, when choosing the yarn for your knitting project, ask yourself (or the nice lady at the yarn shop):

·         Does it pill?

·         How is it laundered?

·         Is it colorfast?

·         Will it stretch?

·         Is it easy to knit with?

·         Does it work with the pattern I've chosen?

·         What size needle will it work best with?

·     If there is no one to ask, buy one ball, skein or hank and swatch!

Whatever yarn you choose, you're going to be seeing a lot of it, so make sure you like it and that it works for your intended project so it will be worth your knitting effort.

Knitting Needles – What enquiring minds want to know

One of the most common questions I answer for new knitters in my los Angeles area knitting classes is what type of needles should I buy.  My answer is, whatever type you prefer.  To which of course, I get an exasperated look.  What Kind of an answer is that?!

So let me elaborate.  A little.

But, before I do, let me just say something you already know, all people are different.  Knitter’s are people and they too are different.  Even when you have two new knitter’s using the same yarn and needles, they each produce totally different results.

Which is one of the primary reasons the type of needles you should use depends on personal preference. 

Other factors involved in choosing needles are, and there could be more, material they are made of, if they are straight, circular, double pointed or jumper needles, length of the needles, the yarn you will knit with them, and the object you are making.

With all these variables, then, how do choose the best ones?  Well, my dears, try them all!  Of course, knowing a little about each type and what they are for will help you choose, but, still try them all.

Ok, let me continue … onward, to the needles:

The first consideration is the material the needles are made from.  Knitting needles can be made from, and are, just about any material – even glass!  The most common materials used for making knitting needles are metal (aluminum, stainless steel, brass), wood (birch, mahogany, bamboo, even composite), and plastic.  Then there are less common materials like glass and bone.

All types of knitting needles, straight, circular, double points etc.. can be made from any of these materials.  Here your choice will be affected by your preference (surprised?) and the yarn you will be knitting with. 
Metal knitting needles generally don’t have too much flex.  They are quite rigid.  They generally have a smooth slippery finish which works well with yarns that are not too slippery like wool.

Wood knitting needles have some degree of flex, with the exception of the hard woods like birch.  They often have a smooth finish, but not always.  Sometimes they have a slightly rougher finish that works well with slippery yarns like silk. 

Plastic needles have a lot of flex.  They are lighter than metal and wood knitting needles, except for maybe bamboo which is very light too.  The finish on plastic needles can vary from very smooth to slightly less so.  If you knit acrylic yarn with plastic knitting needles, you may create static electricity. 

Next, you’ll consider the type of knitting needles:

You’ll develop a preference for a specific type too. 

Before I get into describing the different types of needles, I want to point out that they all come in different sizes (the diameter of the needle) and lengths.  The size and length you choose will be determined by the yarn you will be using.  Ok, and your preference.

Generally, thinner yarns = thinner knitting needles, fatter yarns = fatter knitting needles.  But not always, it really depends on the fabric you want to make.  Denser fabrics are made by using much thinner needles in relation to the thickness of the yarn.  Less dense fabrics are made by using fatter needles in relation to the thickness of the yarn.  A fabric that is not too dense or too loose is achieved by matching the thickness of the yarn and needle. 

Choosing the length of needles is determined by the project and, yes, your preference.  It would be difficult to knit something that is 20” wide has a lot of stitches on 10” inch long straight needles.

Straight knitting needles, also called single point knitting needles, come in a variety of lengths, the most common being 10” and 13”.   These needles are used primarily for back and forth knitting, or knitting flat pieces.  In the case of sweater, the back, front(s) and sleeves are all made separately and then sewn together.
Circular knitting needles are incredibly versatile.  They are my preference.  Anything you can knit with any other type of needles can be knit with circular knitting needles – even things you would knit with double pointed knitting needles, like socks.

Jumper  knitting needles are straight needles with flexible ends.   Sort of like circular needles that had the cable cut at the mid point.  These are useful for knitting items that have a lot of stitches, like an afghan, for example.  They allow the bulk of the fabric to rest in your lap while you are knitting.  They are good for those that want to knit large flat pieces, but hate circular needles.

Double pointed needles are used to knit tubes, think hats, sweaters, socks.   They are much easier to work with than it seems at first sight.

If you knit a lot, and make a variety of things, you will eventually end up with a lot of, and a variety of knitting needles. 

Shaping Your Hand Knit Sweater

Shaping simply means to go from small to big, or big to small.  Its a lot simpler than it seams.  Those of you who have taken my classes already know, numbers are not my friends.  But, in the interest of knitting harmony, we maintain a cordial relationship, numbers and me.  So if I can figure it out, anybody can.


Basically, all we want to know, regardless if you are going big or going small, is how far apart should the increases (going big) or decreases (going small) be and how many times should you repeat?  


Simple question right?  Well here is the simple answer, in 7 easy steps:


Lets pretend we want to shape a sweater sleeve from the top (shoulder) to the wrist...  we'll be decreasing since we are going from big to small.


(Oh, you'll need to make sure you have your gauge swatch handy, you did make one, right?)

Step 1.  Measure the width of the top of the sleeve and measure the width of the wrist.  Make sure you allow extra inches for ease.  (of course, if you're knitting in the round, measure the circumference for the top of the sleeve and wrist)

Step 2.  Subtract the smaller of the two measurements from the larger measurement.

Step 3.  Multiply the result by your stitch gauge.  This tells you how many stitches need to be decreased.

Step 4.  Divide this number by 2.  (in most cases, for sleeves you decrease 2 stitches every decrease round, or row, usually 1 decrease to either side of the seam line, but if you wanted to get rid of more stitches per round or row, divide by that number.)

Step 5.  Measure the vertical distance from the top of the sleeve to the wrist.

Step 6.  Multiply this measurement by your row gauge.  This will tell you how many rounds, or rows, there are between the top of the sleeve and the wrist.

Step 7.  Divide the answer for step 4 into the answer for step 6.  This will tell you how many rounds, or rows apart the decreases should be spaced.

That, my pretties, is all there is to calculating shaping.  

Adventures of Your Friendly Neighborhood Knitting Teacher

So you say you want to learn to knit.  You've gone to YouTube and armed yourself with a how-to book, needles and yarn.  All set, right?  Sure.

Obstacle No. 1:  The person in the YouTube video won't answer your questions, no matter how nicely (or loud) you ask.  They won't change the angle of the camera either.

Obstacle No. 2:  Your how-to book is written in some weird code from some fiber planet as yet to be identified.  No key to decipher said code is provided.

Obstacle No. 3:  Your hands, eyes and mind refuse to coordinate with your chosen needles and yarn.

My friends, before you throw your hands up in defeat, cursing the knitting universe, I invite you to join a knitting class.  With me as your intrepid teacher, of course.

While we're waiting for my next round of classes to start, because I know your fingers are itching to get started now, let me suggest a couple of books to get you going:

and are two of my favorites for beginners.

Oh, when and where do you register for class?
I'm glad you ask!  Follow the links to join in the fun ... 

City of Orange, CA


Whittier, CA