Sunday, January 23, 2011

A yarn is a yarn, but which yarn?

Choosing which yarn to use for a knitting project is one of the main concerns I hear in my knitting classes.  Honestly, you can knit with any fiber that is a continuous length and flexible enough to wrap around the needles.  But, of course you're not going to knit a garment with just anything!  In order for your project to be a successful one, you should enjoy the process and like the material you are working with.  

Eventually you will begin to see how the yarn, shape of the garment you're making and stitch pattern you are using will work together to produce a successful project.  At the beginning of your knitting life, though, when you are making basic two dimensional shapes like scarves or blankets, its OK to let the yarn you fall in love with be the primary focus of your project. However, if a sweater is what will be on your needles then there is a bit more you will want to consider when choosing the yarn for it. Much of the time you might be working from a pattern and that will make your yarn selection simpler since you will likely use the yarn called for in the pattern.


If you find a yarn you really love, and want to make it into a sweater, then you will need to depend on the recommended gauge of the yarn to guide you in deciding the type of sweater that yarn will become.  Recommended gauge, also called 'tension', is listed on the yarn label along with recommendations for knitting needle size, and crochet hook size. It's given as a number of stitches and rows over 4 square inches or 10 square centimeters. This is important information to have, particularly when you are deciding if the yarn you are considering will work as a substitute for something else called for in a pattern you like.

However, if the yarn you are considering knits up to a gauge that might work for your intended project that doesn't mean it will be a good choice.  The same goes for two yarns have the same gauge, it doesn't necessarily mean that they can substitute for each other successfully. If they have different characteristics, texture, drape, fiber, and color, the final garment will look and feel different from what you expected, and might not suit the garment, or the intended recipient of your knitting efforts.  Imagine a summer cardigan made out of super bulky yarn.  How about a scarf that is made out of a material not suitable to wear next to your skin.  Or a cashmere sweater for your 8 year old nephew who will likely spill barbecue sauce on it as soon as he puts it on. Not pretty, or practical, is it?

Buyer beware: it isn't easy to predict what yarn in a ball will look like when it's knitted up. This is especially true of novelty yarns. Vibrantly colored hanks may look beautiful when on display, but be just the opposite of what you expected when knitted up. Plain traditional yarns will often surprise you by knitting up into a fabric you love and never expected.

Keep in mind, the drape and feel of your knitted fabric will vary greatly depending on the particulars of the yarn you choose; how tightly spun it is, the fiber its made of, and the dye used to color it.  Ideally you should check to see whether the yarns you're interested in have been knitted into a sample swatch. Most yarn shops knit up sample swatches or entire sweaters in the yarns they carry so that you can see what they look like worked up.  If this isn't the case for the yarn you want, buy one skein and knit it up into one huge swatch, or several smaller ones.  Really play with it, incorporating different stitch patterns and different knitting needles to see what the yarn's potential is.

If you want to work cables and stitch patterns, a smooth plied yarn in a solid color gives your stitches a sharp look, and will show your effort the best.  Novelty yarns will not usually showcase complex stitch patterns, but instead hide them.  In general, smooth plied yarns in a solid color are best for patterns where you want the knitting to stand out. Novelty yarns are best when you want the yarn to stand out, and in this case look best in plain stockinette or garter stitch.  This is true for variegated yarns too, very simple stitch patterns are best, lots of texture with tricky stitch techniques do not show up well, so why put in all the effort if no one is going to see it?
Also, keep in mind, novelty yarns can be tricky to work with.  The wilder the yarn, the more challenging (and depending on the yarn, maybe impossible) it will be to rip out stitches, or fix mistakes.

To sum up, when choosing the yarn for your knitting project, ask yourself (or the nice lady at the yarn shop):

·         Does it pill?
·         How is it laundered?
·         Is it colorfast?
·         Will it stretch?
·         Is it easy to knit with?
·         Does it work with the pattern I've chosen?
·         What size needle will it work best with?
·     If there is no one to ask, buy one ball, skein or hank and swatch!

Whatever yarn you choose, you're going to be seeing a lot of it, so make sure you like it and that it works for your intended project so it will be worth your knitting effort.

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